Norfolk Coast treat…

My hobby of wildlife photography takes me out into nature across all seasons. Making sure I can layer up, stay warm and dry, and keep my feet dry and comfortable has meant I have swapped the suit shops and ‘smart casual’ brands from my working career to become a regular in Cotswold Outdoors. So earlier in the year when they sent a ‘tell us your opinion’ survey I felt I had something to say and I filled out the on-line form. I’m not sure at the time I even clocked the ‘enter a free prize draw’ element of the survey – and anyway I never win those.

Then, out of the blue, I received an email from Cotswold about the opinion survey - ‘you have won a voucher for a National Trust Holiday’. Obviously I was delighted, what a treat! So where to go? Somerset for the starling murmuration was high on the list; Dorset looked good for a visit to see red squirrels; but then my wife and I settled on the North Norfolk Coast to see if we could see Snow Buntings.

We chose six nights at the National Trust’s Watermill Apartment at Burnham Overy Staithe, at the end of November. The apartment was superb. It overlooks a mill stream where ducks, a grey heron and a black necked grebe can be seen from the window. Opposite is a meadow with a footpath to the coastal marshes, a meadow that proved to have hares in the early morning. A Goshawk was my first sighting over the marshes, followed quickly by curlews and redshanks, and then marsh harriers and red kite.

The apartment itself was brilliantly well equipped (the balloon whisk demanded regular hot chocolate making, and the numerous egg cups gave a great excuse for boiled eggs each morning). It was a real home from home and each evening we spent there was cosy bliss - a great place to hide from the elements.

Perhaps the best thing about the apartment though is the proximity to RSPB Titchwell, and Holkham Beach.

RSPB Titchwell is a great nature reserve, with a long walk through the marshes down to the beach. Our first full day was spent here. Oyster catchers, sanderling and turnstones were our companions on the beach; thousands of ducks and geese were our companions in the marshes, while marsh harriers quartered overhead. We went back towards the end of our trip and were treated to a breath-taking site of thousands of golden plover coming in to roost. Wave after wave of these birds flew in and settled – it was one of nature’s most magnificent spectacles.

Another of those magnificent spectacles is the geese that swarm across the whole area of Holkham. The sky darkens with the sheer number of geese, while their constant honking fills your ears. No photograph or video will ever capture that experience, you just need to go and enjoy it.

Holkham beach is where my number one ‘target’ – the snow bunting’ might be found in winter months. The beach is vast, the birds are tiny. I walked six miles, up and down on the second morning and was beginning to despair when I caught sight of movement in the dune grasses… one, two then three snow buntings. They ignored me as I lay down just a few metres from them. Lying down in the slightly damp sand might not be everyone’s idea of fun, but I was in heaven. Over the next half hour the three birds were constant, while others in the flock came and went close by. It is really humbling when a wild bird just accepts your presence and carries on as if you weren’t there. So, I had my long-wanted shots of snow bunting.

I went back the next morning too – but couldn’t find them again. So back on the last day of our trip – happily finding them, this time in the area the estate had roped off for them to roost safely. I never saw the white tailed eagle that was reported to be at Holkham at the time. I never got very close to the shore larks there for a photo – but I had what I wanted and I came away happy.

Given the time of year it was inevitable that we had ‘weather’, but overall we were extremely lucky. For one drizzly filled day Wells-next-the-sea provided a lovely walk and some gift shops that helped us sort many Christmas presents. Another day trip was Cley and Holt, the latter providing a gluten free feast at the Owl Tea Rooms and more present buying opportunities. The whole area is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise – long coastal walks, great nature sightings, and grand open vistas. We will certainly be back at the Watermill Apartment, and the North Norfolk coast.

A big thank you to Cotswold Outdoors for the prize – it gave us great pleasure and rekindled our enjoyment of the area. As to the National Trust Holiday cottages, we will surely be back to stay.




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Hares of Havergate Island

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Ospreys… an obsession